Woody's Workshop - Page 12 of 57 - Keeping the Grey Matter active

November 10, 2022November 15, 2022

Qidi I-Fast arrives and I am impressed

Decision made on the new 3D printer but it’s big

As per the previous post I have been debating long and hard about which new 3D printer to buy. Strangely enough my wife gave me a hard time about my indecision and told me to just to get on with it.

Qidi sell into the UK market via Amazon and having placed an order, a very large box arrived very quickly onto the doorstep. Very large. But also very well packaged with very good unpacking instructions. It did take the two of us to lift it into position on the bench. Which was the second problem – where to put it. The temporary position is on the side of my desk but this might change.

qidi i-fast printer squeezed onto my desk

The I-Fast has a dual extruder and you get both a high and a low temperature extruder head which are easily swapped out depending on the filament being used. Print size is huge being close to a 300mm (1 foot) cubic space. Two filament dry boxes are provided to keep moisture out of the filament (although I haven’t used these yet). Qidi provide a print slicer which looks a lot like Cura and so far seems fine to use. There was no problem in linking the export from Fusion 360 directly to the I-Fast.

I’ve run some test prints and find it fast and very quiet compared with my old Sindoh DP200 (which is currently sat sulking in the corner). More to follow as I get used to it.

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November 5, 2022November 10, 2022

November update

Mainly jobs in France and 3D printer choice plus thin wall printing

Sorry it has been quiet on my blog. We took a few weeks off in France. This should have been relaxing but things got in the way. Our elderly French neighbours seem to store up their ‘can you just have a look at’ jobs for when we arrive. This ranged from leaking coffee percolator, dead washing machine, DVD player not working etc. I don’t mind this because in return they keep on eye on the house for us. The only frustration is that I am not as well kitted out with repairing resources as I am here in the UK.

From our point of view the spa was coming up with two error messages – no flow and UV lamp needing changing. The flow problem was traced to the flow sensor. This I think might be a Hall Effect sensor that is tripped by a magnet on a thin metal strip that is bent towards the HED with the water flow. It could equally and more likely be as simple as a reed relay that is tripped by the magnet. I managed to source a replacement from a French source.

The UV lamp was not so straightforward to replace but I did question the validity of the message on the display. The UV bulb has a recommended life of 2 years. The software in the spa has a clock which we reset to current time and date when we turn the spar on for each visit. The UV bulb life is based on the clock count down. I am not sure whether it is recording the period from clock time to clock time or the actual running hours given our intermittent short period visits. I carefully checked that the bulb was still glowing brightly and then reset the countdown timer. I’ll take out a new bulb next visit.

There were various other distractions but the weather was amazing for October with one or two days reaching 30 degrees.

Arriving home I have landed a project that requires 3D printing items that need a Z height of over 200mm. The project also needs thin wall printing. My trusty but now dated Sindoh DP200 falls short on this. The Sindoh has been a loyal and reliable device giving me few problems and repeatable quality print results. The main frustration has been having to be single sourced on Sindoh PLA or ABS as their filament has to have the associated custom Sindoh personality chip. Later versions of the Sindoh range (1X and 2X) purport to allow third party filaments to be used.

This has led to some soul searching. I am now comfortable with the concepts involved with 3D printing and have felt for some time that an upgrade of printer was on the cards. My wish list clearly needed to include allowing 3rd party filaments and not just PLA and ABS. (Carbon fibre being very attractive). The list also included an increased build volume and possibly a dual nozzle.

Clough42 has had some recent videos focussed on the Qidi products, namely the I Fast and the X-CF. Qidi also have the X Max. All three of these printers have Z heights of 300mm. Pricing is not low but these are all enclosed printers. There are many other Qidi review videos on YouTube. Qidi seem to be hot on support which is good news. So I have a debate raging on whether to jump and which way. Here is my basic spreadsheet comparison chart which includes the Sindoh 2X as a possible contender. Sindoh might be moving away from their own models and working with more higher end products under their brand Fabweaver. There are some interesting technology articles on the Fabweaver blog.

I investigated the thin wall printing issue and came across a very interesting post by Wayne from SoarKraft. Wayne uses thin wall printing on his slope soaring glider models and he details how Cura and Prusa slicers (free downloads) have only relatively recently caught up on this whereas Simplify 3D (subscription) has had it as a facility for sometime. Wayne’s video is worth a watch. The Qidi printers like many other manufacturers use a variant of Cura. There is a very good support article on the Simplify 3D site that relates to thin wall printing.

My printer upgrade debate continues but the I Fast looks the most attractive. The only problem is it has a large physical envelope and I don’t have a plan where am I going to put it in the office/workshop……

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October 7, 2022October 7, 2022

BK3 Bandsaw Lazy Susan Turntable Update

Adding a Rotation Stop Pin

There is no doubt that adding the Lazy Susan rotating base to my BK3 Burgess Bandsaw has been a good move. Being able to adjust the orientation of the BK3 to suit the material being cut makes life so much easier.

The one issue that has come to light is when adding heavy pressure to the cut I was having to push the material with one hand while trying to stop the BK3 rotating with the other hand/arm/knee.

Following one such episode I have added a stop pin that locates into preset holes in the new wooden base. I used one of the four unused holes in the original BK3 baseplate as the pin locating point. These holes are 6.5mm diameter (probably 1/4″ originally). I could have used a 6.5mm rod pushed through one of these holes into the new wooden baseplate but the BK3 baseplate metal is only 2mm thick. This would probably have resulted in a sloppy hold. Instead I made a small boss and fastened this into the BK3 baseplate left rear hole. The boss clamps on the underside of the baseplate and is held in place with a M6 nut and washer. The 3.5mm through hole provides a rigid guide for the locking pin. The sketch for the boss is below.

The four original holes in my baseplate were a bit rough and the one I chose to use needed a deburr so the shoulder on the boss sat flush to the bottom side of the BK3 baseplate.

The new wooden baseplate needs to be removed from the Lazy Susan so the boss can be mounted in place. Once the boss is in place the Lazy Susan is refitted. A 3.5mm rod is lightly hammered into the wooden baseplate to mark the desired lock positions. The Lazy Susan is then removed again and the wooden base drilled through at the marked locking positions.

The locking pin is a length of 3.5mm silver steel (drill rod) bent at right angles with its ends nicely rounded. The rod is ~45mm on the locating length and ~25mm for the grabbing handle. Here is an image of the finished construction.

This simple modification works extremely well and with hindsight should have been in my thinking when I first fitted the Lazy Susan.

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September 29, 2022October 13, 2023

Dewpoint Monitor Updated Arduino Code

Dewpoint Monitor Auto Reboot facility added

In November 2021 I detailed a Dew Point Monitor. This was aimed for workshop use so a heater or dehumidifier could be turned on automatically to help prevent rusting of assets.

This has been very successful but had one minor issue. If the sensor failed or became disconnected the Arduino would lock up on sensing the problem. Plugging the sensor back in would not re-boot the code. I have added an auto reboot on sensor fail detection.

I have also removed the code that flashed the display after a humidity detection as this seemed superfluous.

The revised write up which contains the code listing is attached on the following link :-

Humidity-Monitor-v2 Download

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September 29, 2022September 29, 2022

Technoline Wireless Weather Station problem

WS-2350 Poor Battery Life

I have had my WS-2350 Weather Station for a very long time and it has always worked reliably. The batteries recently died in the base station unit (3 x AA) and I replaced them. The unit sits in the kitchen and on entering the kitchen the following evening I noticed a glow coming from the LCD screen backlight LEDs. This was unusual as the LEDs should switch off after a few seconds of a key press. I didn’t think anymore about it and went to bed. Next morning the low battery symbol was showing…. and the LEDs were still dimly showing light.

I took the unit through to the workshop and powered it from a 6V external supply. Sure enough the LEDs were on and the current drawn was around 40mA, far too high for long life battery operation.

I removed the eight screws holding the case rear in place and struggled to remove it. There was a build up of corrosion around the battery contacts making them tight in the back cover moulding slots. Some careful cleaning eventually cleared this and the back cover came off. This revealed more accumulated ‘fur’ corrosion around the PCB lands holding the battery contacts and elsewhere on the board. This was cleaned off but the current drawn still remained high.

I next removed the PCB from inside the case. This needs six screws to be removed. A word of warning. These six screws while holding the board in place are also responsible for applying pressure to the conductive rubber contact strips that connect the LCD screen to the PCB. Be very careful not to disturb these strips. The board is also connected to the VLF rod antenna that receives the off air time code updates and also to the antenna for the radio transceiver that connects to the outdoor sensor module. Be very careful not to disturb these components.

I gently lifted the PCB out and sure enough there was even more corrosive fur on the back side of the PCB around the battery terminals and elsewhere on the board. I thoroughly cleaned all this off and with an abrasive pencil brightened up the the battery contacts.

After fastening the PCB back into the case, I powered it back up from the external supply. To my relief the LCD had re-connected okay and was fully working. More important was the power consumption had dropped to microamps. Problem solved. The corrosion somewhere on the board must have been creating a partial short across the PCB tracks. This must have been sufficient to make the processor think a key was still pressed and therefore the backlight LEDs needed to be held on.

As I had never had leaking batteries in the unit I would guess that there had been soldering flux left on the board when it was assembled and this had absorbed moisture and had ‘grown’ and become conductive over time.

I hope this helps someone who might be having similar problems. When battery powered devices are running with very low current it does not need much contamination between copper tracks to cause all sorts of weird effects.

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