Qidi Slicer auto support error on my part

The other day I modelled an adapter boss that had a threaded end to fit a standard CCTV camera mounting box (GB Pipe Thread – 26.441mm x 1.84mm tpi) and with the other end to suit a 20mm flexible conduit. Here is a Fusion pictorial view.

I modified the thread profile as per my post on thread tweaks and posted the file to Qidi Slicer. I opted to print in the orientation as shown above. This clearly needed support under the shoulder so without thinking I ticked the auto support tick box and hit print. The thread was a disaster flecks of filament such that it did not mate with the camera mounting box threaded hole.

Head scratching time, what had gone wrong ?

I had thoughtlessly just ticked autogenerate support and Qidi Slicer saw the thread profiles as potentially needing support and hence all the flash filament. Re-running with ‘support on build plate only’ removed the problem. See below.

This problem probably become more apparent due to the large size of the thread being modelled. Probably a dumb thing to have done but I tend to learn more from doing dumb things. One issue to be aware of in the future.

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Error Code A9 on Odealis Gas Boiler

Not something of general interest – our house in France has an Odealis LPG fired boiler. This provides both hot water and central heating and works very well and is good on efficiency. The hot water side is particularly good in that it is on demand when you run a hot tap and has a limited buffer volume of hot water stored internally.

For sometime we were having problems which resulted in an A9 error message being shown on the control panel. We had a service engineer call twice on this issue and no real resolution. The symptoms were that on demand for hot water the boiler would fire up, run for a short while and then the over temperature cut out would kick in and the boiler stop firing until it had cooled down sufficiently.

If you look in the handbook for error code A9, it tells you to check the temperature measuring thermocouple. This checked out okay and was not the issue.

The boiler has a device called a plate heat exchanger (French term). It is a laminated stack of copper capillaries that have both the hot water and the central heating water flowing independently through them but thermally coupled. It is a heavy lump of metal.

My thinking was along the lines of if this gets blocked the flow reduces through the capillaries and the water temperature rises as it cannot be easily conducted away. I couldn’t decide which side could be causing the problem. We do have a water softener installed which would tend to suggest that the problem was not on the hot water side but more likely on the central heating section.

I requested a service call and this time told the supplier unequivically that I wanted the heat exchanger replaced and that he should leave the old unit in the utility room for me to inspect on our next visit.

On arrival the over temperature problem had gone away. On inspection the old heat exchanger was clogged with metal debris liberated from the inside of the radiators. The capillaries are so fine that this was always likely to become an issue with age and usage.

Having replaced the heat exchanger, I decided to try to alleviate future problems by fitting a Vortex magnetic trap in the boiler return feed. This is a large Neodymium magnet in a trap that forces all the return water to circulate around it and grabs the metalic debris. The trap can be valve isolated so the magnet can be periodically removed and cleaned.

Hopefully the problem has gone away and the new exchanger is better protected from blockage with the magnetic trap doing its job.

Sorry not very interesting but just might save someone the same frustration we had with a supplier who didn’t really understand the source of the problem.

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Power banks that go to sleep with low current drain

I am working on some very low current Arduino projects using the Seeed Xiao. These use LoRa radio connectivity and I needed to go walkabout with the receiver module to check the radio coverage. A power bank seemed like a useful portable power source. The problem with some power banks is that they auto switch off if they do not see 50mA or so of current drain. My receiver was using much less current than this so the power bank kept turning off. Frustrating and irritating.

The good news is that one of my power banks is a Charmast device as shown below and linked.

Thoughtfully this device has a soft workaround. If you plug your device into the USB-C connector and turn on the power bank you will see the battery capacity displayed. If you then hold the power button in for a few seconds, the display changes such that the last digit of the readout cycles round its constituant segments every 15 seconds or so and the power will remain on.

I am guessing that there is an electronic timer in the power bank that pings a surge of current every few seconds to disguise the overall low current drain.

Not all power banks are made equal.

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Rotring 300 2mm clutch pencil modification

I am a great fan of the Rotring 300 clutch pencil that takes 2mm lead. Together with Sharpie markers these make good shirt pocket workshop assets. The pencil has one weakness … the useless ‘sharpener’/ lead pusher that always keeps dropping out, rolling under something/ getting lost, all of which render the pencil frustratingly useless.

When this happens my solution is to model and make a replacement pusher albeit without the sharpener facility. I already have a Staedler Mars sharpener (#502) which is a far better sharpener.

The choice of how to make the new pusher is either a very luxurious metal replacement or a cheap and easily replaceable 3D printed one. Both work well and below are the essential dimensions. Note that these are correct for a metal replacement but for a 3D printed one you might need to tweak the 4mm and 5.5mm diameters to suit your printer accuracy (4.25mm and 5.45mm on mine).

The 3D printed version has a natural friction that retains it in place. The metal one is a bit too perfect and needs the open end slightly distorted (crushed) to help retain it.

The pencils, spare leads and the sharpener all available on Amazon.

The final shirt pocket recommendation is the twin tip Sharpie marker. These are really useful for marking out.

Sorry that wasn’t very interesting but someone somewhere might be grateful of not having to waste too much time down on their knees looking for the useless end button.

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Qidi X Smart 3 MCU comms failure

My two Qidi X Smart 3s have been a good investment but like all things, they are only as good as their ongoing performance.

I recently had a few instances whereby my UK based printer stopped mid print having lost comms. This was the error message.

This error increased in frequency to the point where this message was present from switch on. In the process of this I learned that a good pointer to this problem is zero temperature readings on the opening LCD status screen.

Now at this point I must emphasise that in my experience Qidi support is excellent.

I opened a support dialogue with Qidi and between us we began to analyse the issue. The general initial consensus was that it was likely to be the USB-C umbilical cable connecting the motherboard to the print head. Other things that they suggested I test were whether I had too many files stored on the machine (weird one) or a hot end fan or the nozzle heater having gone short circuit both of the latter would lead to a high current demand via the USB-C. These were easy to test and checked out OK.

Focus therefore moved to the USB-C cable. This carries the power suppy to the hot end together with the control and measurement data stream between the motherboard and the hot end adapter board. The cable tested faulty (see the tester details below). To elimate whether this was the only fault I externally connected a uGreen equivalent USB-C cable but the MCU fault was still present.

The conclusion Qidi and I collectively arrived at was that there was an additional fault either with the motherboard or the adapter board.

Qidi sent me replacements items on a fast delivery from China at no cost to me. This is an example of the level of support you get from Qidi.

On receipt of the shipment it was a matter of substituting each item in turn to identify the culprit. This revealed that I had not just a faulty USB-C cable but also a faulty motherboard. The USB-C cable has to withstand a lot of flexing as the print head zooms around the chamber so I think this might have led to a fatigue related failure of the cable. I wonder also if the cable fault caused some form of knock on transient spike that damaged the motherboard.

While diving in and changing these components might seem a bit daunting, there is really no difficulty swapping them out. Remember to take a picture of everything before you commence. By far the most tricky aspect was physically removing and replacing the USB-C cable as it weaves its way round the build chamber via various slots in the cabinet.

One thing to note is that replacement motherboards, once fitted and working, may need to have their firmware updated to present issue. This is a matter of downloading the new file from the Qidi website. You have to unzip the file (a *.rar compressed file which is WinZip compatible) and then copy the file to a USB stick which you in turn plug into the printer USB port before following the onscreen instructions. Note it is important how you load the file on the memory stick in order for the auto update routine to initiate.

One outcome from all this activity is that I would recommend a USB cable tester. I bought one in from Amazon which is very analytic and immediately showed me I had a dead cable. For GBP16 this will certainly remove any future frustration caused by damaged cables.

Overall not an ideal distraction from more important projects but as ever with this type of problem, you learn more about your workshop tooling and your associated knowledge base expands.

Thank you Qidi for all your help.

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