Author: Woody

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DXF import to Fusion

Doesn’t work with hobby licence

I have a friend who uses the hobby ‘free use’ of Fusion and was struggling to import a DXF. After some exploration we decided that DXF import on Fusion was not allowed for this level of subscription. This is not readily obvious when you look at the Autodesk site.

We think that DXF export might be possible….

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Hybrid 3D brass threaded insert tool

Why didn’t I think of this before ?

I have attempted various standalone soldering iron mounts for inserting brass threaded inserts into 3D prints. None of these ended up being something that I would rush to use with all their various shortcomings.

My brief for a design was that it had to clamp hold my Lytool solder iron (this takes the Hako 900 series bits), ensures the the action on the insert was perpendicular to the workpiece, had a return spring and a depth stop. Most of the designs I had seen were standalone devices.

My outline brief matches a standard drill press action – perpendicular action, return spring and depth stop. Why not use these attributes ?

The result end up being quite simple. A soldering iron mounted on an arm that has an arbor for mounting in the drill press chuck. Here is a garishly coloured Fusion graphic image.

The arbor is a length of M8 studding held firmly in the mounting arm with a top and bottom nut. The soldering iron clamp holds an adapter sleeve to match the soldering iron profile. The clamp is tightened with a 3D printed knob which has a retained M4 nut and thread and this mates with a retained nut in the 3D printed arm.

Here is the real thing.

It clearly doesn’t have much appeal if your 3D printing is in the back bedroom and your drill press is out in the cold damp garage….

If you want the STEP files let me know.

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Adding a second monitor to your Fusion work space

A positive step forward in how you use Fusion

Ever since I started using Fusion (over 10 years ago now … how time flies ..) I had a single wide screen Dell U2913WM 29″ monitor (2560 x 1080). This is a really nice screen to use and has lots of interface options including a Dell Display port (aka HDMI). When using Fusion it gives acres of working space. The U2913 can be picked up on EBay for a reasonable cost and this size and aspect ration makes it well worth the investment.

The frustation with single monitor working is the need to minimise Fusion if you want to dive off to do something in another app.

Lurking in the corner of my office was an old Dell monitor that only had VGA and a DVI as connector options. I wondered at the possibility of using it on my new GEEKOM mini PC which has two HDMI outputs. To my surprise I discovered that you can buy cables and also dongle adapters to allow both VGA and DVI to connect to a HDMI output (how does that work I wonder ?).

I orderd a DVI to HDMI dongle from Amazon and now have the U2913 as the main activity screen and the old Dell as the side activity screen via the DVI to HDMI dongle. This dual screen working is relatively easy to set up in the Windows display options but can be a bit confusing until you get your #1 and #2 screen selected correctly. (I intially had my mouse disappearing off the left side of the big screen and reappearing from the right hand side of the small monitor).

What a joy to have two screens. You can be deep into Fusion on the main large screen and then dive off to do a quick websearch on the other. This has had almost the same impact on my way of working as when I added my 3DConnexion SpaceMouse.

If you have a second screen gathering dust under a bench check it out for possible use. Even an old TV with HDMI interface can be pressed into service . If you don’t have a screen handy there are lots of old interface style ones on EBay at silly prices.

Go two screen ! You won’t regret it.

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Fusion Tips using 3D Connexions SpaceMouse

Set up your preset buttons for Home view and direct 3D print

You can buy the 3DConnexion SpaceMouse and CADMouse combination as a single package.   If you haven’t got a SpaceMouse you are missing a major enhancement to your pleasure while using Fusion.  It’s worth every single penny.

The SpaceMouse is a 3D manipulation mouse and the CADMouse is just a conventional mouse.   Originally when bought as a package they shared a common dongle.  I found that servicing the two devices simultaneously via one dongle led to a laggy experience.   The new versions are Bluetooth connected and are not affected in this respect. If you are considering getting one (and you should) then keep an eye on EBay.

There are two programmable buttons on the basic SpaceMouse which can be preset to shortcut functions.  I have my left hand button set to ‘ISO-1 view’ which means I can quickly reset the modelled object on screen to its home view.  You know how it is when you get totally disorientated when spinning and zooming …. Note that there are more complex versions of SpaceMouse with loads of buttons but this would be asking too much of my memory.

To set up the buttons you need to be in the Fusion Design screen.  The 3DConnexion software ‘knows’ what application you are using and which module in the application so this is important.  In a wider sense this allows the SpaceMouse to be customised specifically to every application you are using on your machine.  (Google Earth fly-by is fun with the SpaceMouse).   

To access the settings menu, click on the right hand end of the Windows taskbar and then right click on the 3DConnexions logo to open the Settings menu.   This will bring up the following menu stack. Note that you must have the Autodesk Fusion – Design… as the title.   The available button options are specfici to each of the other Fusion modules. For example I have two other functions set for when I am in the Electronics PCB design module.

If I right click the SpaceMouse button this takes me to the 3D print submenu in Fusion.   This is the same as clicking on the File menu in Fusion and clicking 3D Print.   This will bring up the following 3D print sub-menu.

(Side comment – if you haven’t discovered it yet … the ‘House/Home’ icon shown at the end of the top menu takes you to a wonderful full page view of all your recent modelling activity. Yes I know it has probably been there ages. I always was a slow developer but what joy when I found it).

Note that I have the Application box set to ‘Custom’ and the Application folder below this is pointing to the QIDI Slicer EXE file which is found in Explorer as below.  Note this is in ‘Program Files’ and not ‘Program Files (x86)’.

Click on the little folder icon in the sub-menu and navigate to and highlight the .EXE file location.  You will now have a direct boot to the slicer software you are using.  This will be activated either from the File menu or your SpaceMouse programmed button.

One extra comment – remember to set the Free Orbit setting or the Spacemouse will resist certain orientations.

Have fun !

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Tap shank adapter for 4mm AF hex drivers

Useful 3D printed adapters for hand tapping 3D threads

I usually 3D print all threaded holes as a modelled thread rather than tapping drill size hole which would need full post print tapping. As the intended thread size of modelled threads reduces so the print quality of the thread can be a problem. This usually leads to a quick post print run through the thread with a manual tap.

Thread quality and strength can be improved by increasing the number of perimeter prints via the slicer software. This makes the printer add extra print lines around all external surfaces before it does the infill. This is even more important if you are going to use brass inserts for your threaded mountings as it gives the insert more plastic to melt into.

The problem with post print clean up tapping is getting the tap to start perpendicular to the already printed tapped hole. If the hole is small (say M2) the size and mass of the tap holder adds to the wobble difficulty of getting it ‘plumb’.

In the past I would mount the tap in a small toolmakers chuck as this gave an extended length to the tap for the eye to judge the ‘plumbness’. I didn’t have enough chucks with the right size collet to cover all tap shanks.

Some time ago Clough42 recommended a small electric screwdriver that had 4mm AF inserts. I found this one on Amazon. There are also many other electrical and manual screwdrivers that use the 4mm AF insert standard.

It struck me that if I could make a set of adapters to mount in the screwdriver chuck to hold the tap shank this would ease the post print tapping problem. The length of this particular screwdriver body gave a better ‘to the eye’ perpendicular check. The added ability to electrically drive the tap meant that the perpendicular setting was more easily maintained. The speed and torque of the driver would also act as a break clutch.

I debated a lathe activity but then thought why not a 3D print? I created a model in Fusion with Parametric functions for the tap AF dimension and square driving section length.

Not all taps are created equal so these two parameters can be easily adjusted using the parametric function to match your tap sizes. Print time was around 9 minutes on my Qidi X Smart. I printed the adapters in PLA+ vertically off the bed as shown and in 0.2mm layer height. I set the slicer for 6 perimeters on the print, a 6mm wide outer brim for build stability and auto support off the build plate.

The adapter boss section will accomodate up to M5 size tap shank dimensions (3.9mm AF, 8mm length). Any size greater than M5 will usually print very clean and not need post print fettling.

Here is the Fusion file for those interested.

tapping adaptersDownload

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