From previous posts you will be aware of my involvement maintaining the local church clock. Over the past months my colleague and I have been nibbling away at various little problemettes with the movement and things are now looking quite good. For the past two weeks it has run sweetly and maintained +/-1 second over that period.
Then last night it stopped.
This morning we wandered round to see what the problem might be. The first thing we do on arrival is look at the front dial to see at what time it had stopped. This time it had stopped at around 10.35 last night. We climbed the tower and inspected the movement.
There did not seem anything obviously wrong so we decided to swing the pendulum and get it working again. We had arrived at just before 10am and our inspection took us over the hour and the front the dial was showing 10.35. Because we were now ‘within the hour’ it was acceptable to wind the hands back to the correct time which was now just after 10am.
I pulled out the motion work locking pin and began to move the hands (which were now independent of the movement) in a backwards direction to set the time. Except the hands would not move backwards. There was resistance. Something bad had happened to the motion work.
We checked the mechanism to both the front and rear dial but there was nothing obviously wrong but the hands refused to go backwards under light pressure and I did not want to force anything at this stage.
We went outside again and this time checked the front and now also the rear dial and this is what we saw : –
Our feathered friends had built a nest on the belfry window ledge and a stick had fallen from the nest and jammed itself in the dial. The odds of this happening must be pretty thin.
A careful waggle of the hands back and forth broke the stick free and we then reset the time and hopefully all will now be well.
The interesting observation was that the stick was only brushing the hand in the forward direction but in reverse it was pushing against it. The forward resistance was still sufficient to reflect back through the motion work into the main mechanism to stop the escapement and therefore the clock.
Yes I know ….. Lots of reasons why I justified it to myself and I went through the prior post decision making process and got a ‘yes’ as a result.
Seriously I have been considering one for sometime. In France the house sits looking out over a valley and we often see deer and foxes (but not yet a wild boar) and I have always hankered for being able to get up close to them. France aside my work on turret clocks often needs a close view of the clock face without the hassle of ladders and scaffolding. So two good reasons (in my book anyway).
I had been watching the market trying to decide when to jump. The two big players for the semi professional market are DJI and Parrot. Both these run out expensive. Then in January I got a mailshot from Banggood about a new device to be launched by Fimi called the X8 SE. This seemed to be only available from Banggood and was on back order status. I missed out on the first delivery but finally my toy arrived last week.
It is amazing. And at a fantastic price.
Not ever owning a drone before I cannot compare with anything but it is so easy to drive and has so many automated flying routines. Battery life is around 30 minutes and range is stated as 4km and it can skim along at 18m/s speed (yes that is 65km/hr ….). It does 4k video and 12M stills.
So that is my entertainment sorted for summer, should summer finally arrive.
It is worth watching Dustin Dunhill on YouTube if you want a serious review of the device. He does tech reviews and there are 3 or 4 Fimi videos on his platform.
I have been putting this off as I thought it would be hassle and in fact it was very simple.
Here is the code which is the first time I have ever used a sub-routine.
The top section is my standard set up routine for the Tormach.
The middle section has some out of the way locations to try the idea so don’t get too fixated by these. The important bit is the M98 call for the sub routine, the sub routine name (1001) and the number of repeats (the L5 for five repeats).
The last section is the sub routine indicated by the O1001. The M64 command is specific to the Tormach USB Expansion board and it makes relay P0 in the box close its contact which in turn activates the Sherline CNC Rotary table to move one step. The cutter than moves across to cut the tooth and then returns whereupon the relay drops out (M65), waits and then closes once more to increment the table. Once five repeats have happened the M99 closes the sub routine and the program jumps back to the Z10 line in the middle section before stopping the spindle, homing and ending.
The joy of this method is that it is a simple edit of one line (the M98 instruction) to change the number of tooth cutting increments. I like it a lot.
Some fine tuning is still needed on the back and forth distances needed to clear the cutter through the wheel blank.
The normal test of the cut depth routine will still be needed before this could be run but once this is done it should be a sit and watch job. Hopefully.
I have yet to run a wheel in anger so I will let you know how it goes.
It has been a thoughtful morning on the Tormach wheel cutting setup.
In order to cut clock wheels the first step is that I need to be able to set the cycloidal cutter centre line accurately on the centre line of the blank brass diameter. See the picture and description below.
From previous posts you will know I have got the chuck securely and centrally mounted on the CNC rotary table and this assembly is in turn rigidly fixed on the tooling table. The position of the centre line of the chuck is now fixed relative to the tooling plate on the bed. The chuck and rotary table mounting bracket is sufficiently Woody over engineered to hopefully be repeatable. Likewise the distance from the spindle to the chuck can be repeatably zeroed using the Haimer and its associated tool table entry (#90).
Expanding this a little, if I put my favourite piece of 11mm diameter silver steel in the chuck and bring the Haimer down to contact it, rock the Haimer back and forth in Y to get the steel diameter peak, I can get a Z zero reading to the top of the steel. By creating a new entry in the Tormach tool table (#91) which is the Haimer length plus 5.5mm (the radius of the silver steel) I can use this virtual length stored as a new tool #91 to allow me to set the Haimer on the silver steel while actually giving me Z0 on the centre line of the chuck. So far so good.
As you might have read from an earlier post, the idea of using the Tormach Slitting Saw arbor to hold my cycloidal cutters would in theory create a repeatable tool length to the centre line of the cycloidal cutter teeth. Having this as a tool table set up in the Tormach would simplify setting the cutter centre to the centre line of the chuck and therefore the centre line of the wheel blank being cut. This is where the thinking drifted somewhat.
I created a new tool table entry (#77) that was the length of the saw arbor to the shoulder that the cycloidal cutter fastens against. I thought I could then follow the same routine as detailed above and add to this length the half thickness of the cutter and create a new tool table entry to match. This would once again create a length which would give the centre line of the cycloidal cutter.
That was fine until I measured my tray of cycloidal cutters to see what the thickness of the cutters were …… sadly consistent they are not. There seems to be no standard by manufacturer or diameter. I have cutters with thicknesses from 3mm through to 7mm. I could create a new tool table entry for each thickness but this is a recipe for a mistake when selecting the correct tool table entry for the cutter being used.
The simple solution I think is to use slitting saw arbor tool table length (#77) as the initial setting length to Z0 and then do a G0 Z-x.xx where x.xx is the half thickness of the cutter being used. Once Z has dropped to this reading the Z axis can be re-zeroed to run the wheel in question with the cutter in question now sitting on its centre line on the centre line of the chuck.
I hope that all makes sense …. I could of course just eyeball it and not try to be so fussy but when you have the tools to make things easier you might as well use them. I also need to look after my precious piece of 11mm diameter silver steel.
Another piece of the clock wheel cutting hardware completed.
The Tormach USB expansion board is now boxed and the connectors wired to the board. I milled a viewing window in the box with a matching piece of perspex. This allows me to see the status LEDs on the pcb. Port #P0 is now dedicated to the Sherline CNC rotary table controller which requires a closure to increment the table stepper motor.
The connectors are all 8 pin MiniDIN which matches the interface on the rotary table.